Mold Armor

General Mold Removal Information

Preparing The Space

Remove all movable items from the area. Move any contaminated items directly to the outside via a window. If items need to be moved through a habitable area, place them in plastic garbage bags or seal them in thin polyethylene plastic.

• Allow damp items to air dry in the sun.
• Once they’re dry, place salvageable items in a watertight or airtight storage container until they can be properly cleaned. Discard the rest.
• Check cooling ducts or other cooling equipment to be sure there are no gaps or openings in the insulation or duct-work: seal as needed.
• Measure the relative humidity (RH) with a hygrometer. If the RH is about 50%, dehumidify the space to help dry surfaces, stop mold growth, and improve the effectiveness of anti-mold products. Once an exhaust fan is started, RH will become equal to the outdoor RH, however and the space can no longer be dehumidified.
• Contain the mold contaminated area as close to the source as possible to keep the contamination from spreading. This may simply include closing doors and taping off vents or it may require more extensive measures, like erecting plastic barriers and duct taping off adjoining spaces.
• Containment always includes isolating the area and creating negative pressure by exhausting air from the space, for example in a finished basement room, by putting an exhaust fan in a window, if present, and by closing any other windows and doors in the room (cover doors with sheet plastic). Be careful to control the rate of exhaust, however, if any mechanical equipment is present in the space. If the exhaust fan is operating at too high a speed, you can excessively depressurize the basement and cause backdrafting of combustion gases.

Cleaning Away Mold

• If there is exposed fiberglass insulation present, and there is visible mold on the rafters or sheathing, or the fiberglass contains rodent burrows, the insulation should be removed, put into plastic trash bags and discarded.
• Using a HEPA vacuum (one with a high efficiency particulate arrestance filter), vacuum all surfaces: any flooring present, rafters, sheathing, and any mechanical equipment. (Do not use a conventional vacuum cleaner or a shop vacuum, because these vacuums will spew out mold spores in their exhaust.)
• Heavily solid wood surfaces can be wire-brushed or sanded. If sanding, use a sander that can be connected to a HEPA vacuum to collect the dust.
• Treat surfaces with an appropriate EPA-registered fungicide as needed (follow product directions).
• Allow surfaces to dry before applying antimicrobial paints or sealants. (It’s also a good idea to spray paint the sheathing and rafters with a sealant.)
• Dehumidify if necessary to help surfaces dry after the space has been cleaned.
• HEPA vacuum all exposed surfaces again.
• After an area is cleaned, treated and dried out, surfaces can be repainted.
• Consider re-testing for airborne spores and re-treat as necessary. Also test the outdoor air for comparison. Don’t remove the containment until you are sure you have finished the job.
• As a precaution, HEPA vacuum surfaces in adjoining rooms after the clean-up work is completed. If using the same HEPA vacuum that was used for the cleanup, take the vacuum outside and remove and discard the bag and the HEPA filter. Then damp wipe the interior and exterior of the machine with an appropriate EPA-registered fungicide, and put a new bag and HEPA filter inside.

Properly dispose of the contaminated materials according to your local, State, and Federal regulations.

• Attics
• Basements
• Closets
• Crawl Spaces
• Kitchens
• Laundry Rooms

Removing Mold From an Attic

Attics are often moldy because there’s too much moisture present and too little ventilation. The source of moisture may be a leaking roof, hot, humid air rising into the attic through gaps in doors and recessed fixtures — or bathroom and kitchen exhaust fans that vent up into the attic or directly into the soffit space. Mold can easily spread to other areas of the building, so it’s important to solve any mold problem quickly.

Set Up Containment

Containment always includes isolating the area and creating negative pressure by exhausting air from the space. In an attic, by keeping the opening between the attic and the room or rooms below closed, putting an exhaust fan in an attic window and closing all other windows in the space. If there are no windows or other openings to the exterior in the attic, consider installing an attic fan to serve as an exhaust.

Use expanding foam or steel wool to seal any openings around pipes or ducts that lead from the attic to rooms below.

If the attic is accessed through a habitable space, the containment must be extended so PPE can be removed before other areas of the building are entered.

If the attic is accessed through pull-down stairs in a bedroom: Empty the room and keep the doors to adjacent spaces closed. If it’s too difficult to take everything out of the room, isolate a small space around the attic access by using Zipwalls (www.zipwall.com) — in effect, creating a sheet-plastic room within a room.

If the attic is accessed through pull-down stairs in the hallway: Enclose a small area around the top of the stairs, inside the attic, using plastic sheeting stapled to rafters or sheathing.

If the attic is accessed through a hatch in a closet: Empty the closet and isolate a small area outside the closet door by setting up Zipwalls.

Preparing The Space

• Remove all movable items from the area. Move any contaminated items directly to the outside via a window. If items need to be moved though a habitable area, place them in plastic garbage bags or seal them in thin polyethylene plastic.
• Allow damp items to air dry in the sun.
• Once they’re dry, place salvageable items in a watertight or airtight storage container until they can be properly cleaned. Discard the rest.
• Check cooling ducts or other cooling equipment to be sure there are no gaps or openings in the insulation or ductwork; seal as needed.
• Measure the relative humidity (RH) with a hygrometer. If the RH is above 50%, dehumidify the space to help dry surfaces, stop mold growth, and improve the effectiveness of anti-mold products. Once an exhaust fan is started, RH will become equal to the outdoor RH, however, and the space can no longer be dehumidified.

Cleaning Away Mold

• If there is exposed fiberglass insulation present, and there is visible mold on the rafters or sheathing, or the fiberglass contains rodent burrows, the insulation should be removed, put into plastic trash bags and discarded.
• Using a HEPA vacuum (one with a high efficiency particulate arrestance filter), vacuum all surfaces: any flooring present, rafters, sheathing, and any mechanical equipment located in the attic. (Do not use a conventional vacuum cleaner or a shop vacuum, because these vacuums will spew out mold spores in their exhaust.)
• Heavily soiled wood surfaces can be wire-brushed or sanded. If sanding, use a sander that can be connected to a HEPA vacuum to collect the dust.
• Treat surfaces with an appropriate EPA-registered fungicide as needed (follow product directions).
• Allow surfaces to dry before applying antimicrobial paints or sealants. (It’s also a good idea to spray paint the sheathing and rafters with a sealant.)
• Dehumidify if necessary to help surfaces dry after the space has been cleaned.
• HEPA vacuum all exposed surfaces again.
• After an area is cleaned, treated and dried out, surfaces can be repainted.
• Consider re-testing the attic for airborne spores and re-treat as necessary. Since a ventilated attic is “open” to the outside, also test the outdoor air for comparison. Don’t remove the containment until you are sure you have finished the job.
• As a precaution, HEPA vacuum surfaces in the room or rooms below the attic after the attic clean-up work is completed. If using the same HEPA vacuum that was used for the cleanup, take the vacuum outside and remove and discard the bag and the HEPA filter. Then damp-wipe the interior and exterior of the machine with an appropriate EPA-registered fungicide, and put a new bag and HEPA filter inside.
• Do post-remediation testing in adjacent areas. Depending on the results, more cleaning may be required.

Preventing Future Mold Growth

To prevent moisture from entering the attic, be sure the door or access hatch leading to the attic closes tightly. Also, replace recessed fixtures that allow house air to flow up into the attic, and seal around pipe and duct chases. Any fan that exhausts house air must vent directly to the exterior, either through the roof, a gable-end vent, or a vent kit that is installed in the soffit. Leaky ducts and HVAC equipment in the attic should be sealed.

Properly dispose of the contaminated materials according to your local, State, and Federal regulations.

Removing Mold From a Basement

Poor ventilation, leaks, flooding, dripping plumbing, clogged floor drains, moisture from the washer and dryer, leaks around doors and windows — these are all common conditions in basements that can lead to mold and mildew infestation. Because mold can easily spread to other areas of the building, it’s essential to fix moisture problems, remediate mold and prevent future growth.

Set Up Containment

Containment always includes isolating the area and creating negative pressure by exhausting air from the space. This can be achieved by putting an exhaust fan in a window, if present, and by closing any other windows and doors in the room (cover doors with sheet plastic).

Be careful to control the rate of exhaust, however, if any mechanical equipment is present in the space. If the exhaust fan is operating at too high a speed, you can excessively depressurize the basement and cause back drafting of combustion gases. If you have further questions, confer with a heating professional.

Pre-Remediation Testing

Using Mold Armor® Mold Test Kit: Test the air in the basement.

Test any insulation above a drop ceiling by pressing the soft surface of the open test kit up against the insulation (Remember to wear a respirator when taking the sample).

Test carpeting if you suspect a mold problem by gently patting the carpet several times, as if you were tapping the surface, with the soft surface of the mold kit facing the fibers (wear a respirator when taking the sample). The surface of the agar gel in the test kit does not have to touch the fibers. Mold is most likely to grow at the perimeter of a room, where it tends to be cooler and the relative humidity is thus elevated, so the best place to test a carpet for mold growth is near walls in front of the foundation.

Before Cleaning

• Remove all movable items from the area. Move any contaminated items directly to the outside via a window. If any items need to be moved though a habitable area, place them in plastic garbage bags or seal them in thin polyethylene plastic
• Allow damp items to air dry in the sun.
• Once dry, place salvageable items in a watertight or airtight storage container until they can be properly cleaned. Discard the rest.

Items that are too difficult to move – such as heavy pieces of furniture – should be covered with plastic sheeting if they don’t need to be cleaned.

Upholstered furniture will probably need to be reupholstered.

Mattresses and pillows should be discarded.

If there is a hot air heating system and/or a central air conditioning system, close supplies and returns.

Cover the registers and grilles with aluminum foil, secured at the edges with removable painter’s tape.

Measure the relative humidity (RH) with a hygrometer. If the RH is above 50%, dehumidify the space to help dry surfaces, stop mold growth, and improve the effectiveness of anti-mold products.

Cleaning Away Mold

• Using a HEPA vacuum (one with a high efficiency particulate arrestance filter), vacuum all surfaces, including walls, the floor, ceilings, radiators or baseboards, and tops of any visible pipes. (Do not use a conventional vacuum cleaner or a shop vacuum, because these vacuums will spew out mold spores in their exhaust.)
• Use a 36-inch vacuum crevice tool to get to hard-to-reach surfaces (search online for “36 inch crevice tool” AND “vacuum”).
• Don’t forget to vacuum the bottoms of the fins on baseboard convectors. If there is dust trapped between the fins, spray the fin tubing with an appropriate EPA-registered fungicide; then spray the fins with water to rinse away all the fungicide. Put old towels under the convectors to catch the grime.
• Treat surfaces with an appropriate EPA-registered fungicide as needed (follow product directions).
• Treat paneled walls, which often become infested with mold growth, especially on the lower few feet, in the grooves and in cool corners.
• If the acoustical ceiling tiles or drop-ceiling panels that contain visible mold should be placed into plastic bags and discard along with any contaminated ceiling insulation.
• Carpets that smell slightly musty can be steam cleaned using an appropriate EPA-registered fungicide.
• If the carpet contains visible mold, however, or has remained damp for more than two days and has a strong musty odor, it should be removed after setting up containment. Any carpet pad present should also be removed.
• If cleaning a moldy area or a wall that is less than 10 square feet in size and that was affected by a short-term leak in the wall cavity, remove the drywall and wall insulation from an area starting about a foot above where the leak occurred and going all the way down to the floor.
• If a leak occurred inside a ceiling cavity, then damp drywall or ceiling tiles, as well as any damp insulation, should be removed. Ceiling materials and insulation about a foot outside the damp area should also be removed. These building materials should be placed in plastic bags and discarded.
• HEPA vacuum and then treat surfaces – including the foundation walls and any exposed framing – with an appropriate EPA-registered fungicide.
• Dehumidify if necessary to help surfaces dry after the space has been cleaned and treated.
• Solid-surfaced furniture that remained in the room should be properly cleaned.
• HEPA vacuum surfaces in the space once again, including baseboard-convectors and radiators.
• After cleaning the basement, HEPA vacuum surfaces in the house — especially carefully in adjacent basement spaces. If using the same HEPA vacuum that was used for the cleanup, take the vacuum outside, and remove and discard the bag and the HEPA filter. Then damp-wipe the interior and exterior of the machine with an appropriate EPA-registered fungicide, and put a new bag and HEPA filter inside.

Retest For Mold

Consider re-testing the basement and adjacent areas for airborne spores. Don’t remove the containment until you are sure the job has been finished. When done, remember to uncover any registers and grilles that were sealed with aluminum foil.

Preventing Future Mold Growth

• Antimicrobial paints or sealants can be applied to many surfaces, once dry.
• Carpet fibers capture biodegradable dust, so consider installing hard flooring such as vinyl or ceramic tile, rather than carpeting.
• During heating season, set the thermostat to a minimum of 60°F to avoid moisture condensation that could result in the regrowth of mold.
• During humid weather, finished basement spaces must be dehumidified or air conditioned, leaving windows closed and doors to closets and other storage areas open.

Properly dispose of the contaminated materials according to your local, State, and Federal regulations.

Removing Mold From a Closet

The dark, unventilated environment of a closet — coupled with moisture or humidity — creates ideal conditions for mold growth. Clothing and goods stored in a moldy closet can acquire mold growth along surfaces, especially in cold climates where clothing and shoes are contact with the walls or floor. When checking for mold, be sure to check the floors and lower walls of closets that face the building exterior where temperatures tend to be colder and relative humidity higher.

Set Up Containment

Containment is used to prevent mold spores from spreading. Containment always includes isolating the area and creating negative pressure by exhausting air from the space. In a closet, this can be achieved in one of the four following ways

1. Put an exhaust fan in a closet window and close the door.
2. If the closet lacks a window, set up a ZipWall enclosure (www.zipwall.com) that includes a nearby window in an adjacent room.
3. Exhaust air from the closet by putting a HEPA vacuum outside the door (a vacuum with a high efficiency particulate arrestance filter). Do not use a shop vacuum or conventional vacuum cleaner, as these vacuums will spew out mold spores and other irritants and allergens in their exhaust. Extend the end of the vacuum hose to the closet and close the door until it contacts the hose. Use removable painter’s tape and/or plastic to make the door opening airtight.
4. Cover the doorway with plastic sheeting, and use a flexible, four-inch metal dryer hose and an in-line axial fan at the outside end of the hose to exhaust air from the space. The hose can extend under the plastic sheeting to the outside of the house.

Use expanding foam or steel wool to seal any openings around pipes that lead from the closet to adjacent spaces.

Pre-Remediation Testing

Test the air in the closet with an Mold Armor® Mold Test Kit. It’s not necessary to wait for the test results to start cleaning areas that contain visible mold.

Before Cleaning

Remove contents from the closet, placing items in plastic garbage bags or sealing them in thin polyethylene plastic before moving them through a habitable area.

• Allow damp items to air dry in the sun.
• Once dry, place salvageable items in a watertight or airtight storage container until they can be properly cleaned. Discard the rest.

Close any supplies or returns that are in the closet, and cover the registers and grilles with aluminum foil, secured at the edges with removable painter’s tape.
Measure the relative humidity (RH) in the closet with a hygrometer. If the RH is above 50%, open the closet window if you’re working in a dry climate, or open the closet door to help dry out the space. If this doesn’t help, dehumidify the closet. Drying the air will help dry out surfaces, stop mold growth, and improve the effectiveness of anti-mold products.

Cleaning Away Mold

• Any carpeting in the closet should be rolled up, bagged, removed and discarded. Before removing the carpeting, it’s important to lightly spray it first with an appropriate EPA-registered fungicide to dampen allergenic, irritating dust and disinfect the material.
• Clean all surfaces with an appropriate EPA-registered fungicide.
• HEPA vacuum closet surfaces when you’ve finished cleaning away the mold.

Clean Adjacent Areas

As a precaution, HEPA vacuum surfaces in the space adjacent to the closet. If using the same HEPA vacuum that was used for the cleanup, take the vacuum outside, and remove and discard the bag and the HEPA filter. Then damp-wipe the interior and exterior of the machine with an appropriate EPA-registered fungicide, then put a new bag and HEPA filter inside.

Retesting For Mold

Consider re-testing both the closet and the adjacent areas for airborne spores and re-treat as necessary. Don’t remove the containment until you are sure you have finished the job. Remember to remove the aluminum foil used to seal registers and grilles.

Properly dispose of the contaminated materials according to your local, State, and Federal regulations.

Removing Mold From Crawl Spaces

In crawl spaces, mold can grow on surfaces of floor joists, sub-flooring, beams, stored goods, dust, dirt, debris and on the invisible dust trapped in exposed fiberglass insulation or crushed stone. Even if there’s a vapor barrier over the soil, mold can grow on the dust settled on top of the barrier. Any of this mold growth can cause the musty odors associated with crawl spaces — and spread to living spaces above.

Set Up Containment

Containment is used to prevent mold spores from spreading into habitable areas — and always includes isolating the area and creating negative pressure by exhausting air from the space. In a crawl space, this can be achieved by putting an exhaust fan in a window, if present, and closing all other windows and vents.

• Be careful to control the rate of exhaust, however, When using mechanical equipment, an exhaust fan operating at too high a speed can excessively depressurize the crawl space and cause back drafting of combustion gases.
• If there is an opening between the crawl space and the basement, seal the opening with plastic.
• Use expanding foam or steel wool to seal any openings around pipes that lead to rooms above or to the basement.
• Temporarily seal any crawl space vents.

Pre-Remediation Testing

Using Mold Armor® Mold Test Kit:

• Test the air in the crawl space
• Test any exposed insulation
• Test adjacent areas, especially those immediately above the crawl space

Before Cleaning

• Clear out the crawl space.
• Discard unwanted items — allow salvageable items to air dry in the sun, and then place them in an airtight and watertight storage container until they can be properly cleaned.
• Make sure the dryer exhaust does not vent into the crawl space.
• Eliminate any standing water.
• Cover any uncovered soil temporarily with 6-mil polyethylene.
• If possible, use a small fan to mix the air and speed drying of surfaces
• Be sure downspouts extend away from the foundation, and grading slopes away from the building

Cleaning Away Mold

• If there is visible mold on the floor joists or the fiberglass is falling and shredded, the insulation must be removed, put into plastic trash bags and discarded.
• Heavily soiled wood surfaces can be wire-brushed or sanded. If sanding, the sander must be connected to a HEPA vacuum to collect the dust.
• Consider treating area with dry ice, soda/sand blasting or steam vapor.
• Treat surfaces — floor joists, subfloor, foundation walls, and concrete floor — with an appropriate EPA-registered fungicide in order to remove mold stains and growth.
• Once dry again, apply at least two coats of appropriate EPA-registered fungicide to kill mold and mold spores, allowing all surfaces to dry thoroughly in between applications.
• Lightly spray paint the framing to seal in residual dust.
• Clean the vapor barrier over the soil with appropriate EPA-registered fungicide.
• Dehumidify, if necessary, to help surfaces dry after the space has been cleaned.

Clean Adjacent Areas

As a precaution, HEPA vacuum surfaces in the space adjacent to the closet. If using the same HEPA vacuum that was used for the cleanup, take the vacuum outside, and remove and discard the bag and the HEPA filter. Then damp-wipe the interior and exterior of the machine with an appropriate EPA-registered fungicide, then put a new bag and HEPA filter inside.

Retesting For Mold

Consider re-testing the crawl space and adjacent areas. Re-treat as necessary. Don’t remove the containment until you are sure the job is finished. Remember to remove the aluminum foil used to seal registers and grilles.
Prevent Future Mold Growth

• Antimicrobial paints or sealants can be applied once surfaces are dry.
• In a humid climate, a crawl space should not be ventilated to the exterior, but rather sealed from the exterior and dehumidified during the humid season.
• If the only soil cover is polyethylene sheeting, install a heavy-duty, mesh-reinforced vapor barrier, securely fastened to the foundation walls and beam support posts. Or, if height clearance allows, cover the soil with a vapor barrier, crushed stone, or concrete.
• If replacing the fiberglass insulation, cover the insulation completely with Tyvek®, stapled to the joists (do not leave any gaps).
• Use sheet-foam insulation against the foundation walls rather than fiberglass insulation between the joists (check local building codes first.)
• Personal goods should not be stored in a crawl space because surfaces collect dust that can support mold growth.

Properly dispose of the contaminated materials according to your local, State, and Federal regulations.

Removing Mold From Kitchens

Dishwashers, sinks, faucets, icemakers in refrigerators and the extensive plumbing behind the walls are all sources of potential leaks that can provide mold with the moisture they need to thrive. That makes it critical to inspect water line connections and gaskets for signs of leaks — and to remediate any mold problems before it has a chance to spread.

Set Up Containment

Set up containment to prevent mold spores and moldy dust from spreading into adjacent habitable areas. Containment always includes isolating the area and creating negative pressure by exhausting air from the space. This can be achieved in a kitchen by:

• Keeping the doors closed or hanging plastic sheeting over the doorway
• Putting a fan in the open window, and operate the fan on exhaust
• Keeping all other windows closed
• If there are no windows in the kitchen, and only cleaning surface mold, cover the door opening with sheet plastic and use a flexible, four-inch metal dryer hose and an in-line axial fan at the outside end of the house to exhaust air from the space. The hose should extend under the plastic sheet to the outside of the house.
• Use expanding foam or steel wool to seal any openings around pipes that lead to other spaces.

Pre-Remediation Testing

Use Mold Armor® Mold Test Kit to test the air in the kitchen and any adjacent spaces.

Before Cleaning

• Remove shelves and food drawers for easier cleaning.
• Cover clean counters with plastic sheeting.
• Move furniture to another corner of the room.
• Shelves should be emptied and cleaned.
• Kitchen towels should be washed.
• Put any food emptied from the refrigerator or freezer into a cooler.
• Seal drawers, as well as food and dish cabinets, with removable painter’s tape, or empty shelves and drawers before starting to clean away the mold.
• If there is a hot air heating system or central air conditioning system, close kitchen supplies and returns, and cover the registers and grilles with aluminum foil, secured at the edges with removable painter’s tape.

Cleaning Away Mold

Major Leaks:

• If cleaning a moldy area caused by a short-term leak and covering an area less than 10 square feet in size:
• For leaks occurring inside a wall, remove drywall and wall insulation from an area starting about a foot above the leak and going all the way down to the floor.
• For leak occurring inside the ceiling cavity, remove ceiling materials, drywall and insulation, extending about a foot past the damp area on all sides.
• All of these building materials should be placed in plastic bags and discarded.
• Decayed wall studs or ceiling strapping or joists may need to be repaired or replaced. Give the wall or ceiling cavity time to dry before treating surfaces within with an appropriate EPA-registered fungicide to kill mold and disinfect the cavity. Once dry, cavity surfaces can be treated with antimicrobial paints or sealants.
• Do not close up the wall or ceiling cavity until treatment is complete and the entire area dry.
• If kitchen tile was removed, install new tile on cement board rather than drywall. After the new grout is cured, apply a grout sealant as directed.

Using a HEPA vacuum (one with a high efficiency particulate arrestance filter), vacuum all surfaces, including walls, the floor, counter tops, the ceiling, tops of cabinets (if accessible), exposed pipes, and radiators or baseboard convectors, or if there is hot-air heat or central air-conditioning, the “boot” under the supply registers. Do not use a conventional vacuum cleaner or a shop vacuum, as these vacuums emit mold spores and other irritants and allergens in their exhaust. A 36-inch vacuum crevice tool will help reach hard-to-reach surfaces. Don’t forget to vacuum the bottoms of the fins of kitchen baseboard convectors. If the fins still appear to be soiled, consider cleaning them with a steam vapor machine. Follow manufacturer’s directions for safe use of this equipment, and protect flooring by putting old towels beneath the convectors. The towels will also catch the grime.

• Clean and disinfect moldy surfaces, including shelves, with an appropriate EPA-registered fungicide.
• Wipe the sides and front of the refrigerator with an appropriate EPA-registered fungicide to disinfect the surfaces and kill mold spores.
• Use the 36-inch vacuum crevice tool to vacuum the sides, front and back of the refrigerator, as well as the coils.
• If water has been leaking for a long time from a fixture or pipe into the sink cabinet, there may be mold on the bottom of the cabinet, especially if it is warped. Remove the bottom and treat exposed surfaces. If the cabinet is seriously water damaged, consider replacement.
• If necessary, the kitchen itself should be dehumidified to help surfaces dry after the space has been cleaned and treated.
• After you’ve finished the work, HEPA vacuum surfaces one more time, including unopened boxes and cans. Wash dishes before returning them to shelves and cabinets.

Prevent Future Mold Growth

• After being cleaned and treated, painted surfaces can be repainted.
• If an appliance has a plastic drip tray, put two tablespoons of an appropriate EPA-registered fungicide in the tray to inhibit microbial growth.
• Encourage tenants to:
  • Clean food shelves every few months
  • Use the exhaust fan when cooking
  • Not to leave open food containers lying around
  • Clean any food spills.

Properly dispose of the contaminated materials according to your local, State, and Federal regulations.

Removing Mold From Laundry Rooms

In a laundry facility, mold can commonly grow on the dust on the walls, ceiling, shelves, and door, as well as on the floor underneath or the walls behind the washing machine, especially if the appliance has been leaking. Problems with the venting of a clothes dryer and the elevated humidity levels associated with laundering also contribute to the growth of mold. That’s why its important to inspect for mold on a regular basis, and to eradicate the problem at the first sign of mold growth.

Set Up Containment

Containment is critical to prevent mold spores and moldy dust from spreading into adjacent habitable areas — and always includes isolating the area and creating negative pressure by exhausting air from the space. This can be achieved in a laundry room by:

• Keeping the doors closed or hanging plastic sheeting over the doorway
• Putting a fan in the open window, and operate the fan on exhaust
• Keeping all other windows closed

If there is no window in the laundry room, and only cleaning surface mold, cover the door opening with sheet plastic and use a flexible, four-inch metal dryer hose and an in-line axial fan at the outside end of the house to exhaust air from the space. The hose should extend under the plastic sheet to the outside of the building.

Use expanding foam or steel wool to seal any openings around pipes that lead to other spaces.

Pre-Remediation Testing

Use Mold Armor® Mold Test Kit to test the air in the laundry room and any adjacent spaces.

Before Cleaning

• Clear the room out as much as possible —empty shelves can be left in place and cleaned later.
• Seal clean cabinets with removable painter’s tape.
• Place items in plastic garbage bags or seal them in thin polyethylene plastic before moving them through other spaces in the house.
• Items with solid surfaces should be wiped outside with an appropriate EPA-registered fungicide before being moved through a habitable area.
• Wash towels or curtains after the laundry room has been treated.
• Close any HVAC supplies or returns in the laundry room.
• Cover the registers and grilles with aluminum foil, secured at the edges with removable painter’s tape.
• Wipe up any standing water.
• If it’s a dry day, open a window to air out the room.
• Use a small fan plugged into a GFI outlet to speed drying (large fans can stir up mold spores).
• Keep the room warm – at least to 65 or 70ºF.
• Measure the relative humidity (RH) in the room with a hygrometer. If the RH remains above 50%, dehumidify the space to dry out surfaces, stop mold growth, and improve the effectiveness of anti-mold products.

Cleaning Away Mold

• Using a HEPA vacuum (one with high efficiency particulate arrestance filtration), vacuum all surfaces, including walls, the floor, counter tops, tops of cabinets (if accessible), the ceiling, exposed pipes, outside surfaces of the washing machine and dryer, and radiators or baseboard convectors.
• Vacuum the bottoms of the fins in the baseboard convectors. If the fins still appear to be soiled, consider treating them with steam vapor. Follow the manufacturer’s directions for safe use of the steam-vapor machine. Put rags or old towels under the convectors to catch the grime. If there is hot-air heat or central air conditioning, vacuum the “boot” under the supply register. After vacuuming, put the register back in place.
• Move the washing machine or dryer away from the wall in order to vacuum the exterior appliance surfaces. Slide the appliances out so the space in which they were sitting can be cleaned.
• If there is an access panel for the dryer, remove the panel and vacuum dust from the interior.
• Apply an appropriate EPA-registered fungicide to disinfect surfaces and kill any lingering mold or mold spores.
• If there has been a long-term leak, check the bottom of any cabinet under a sink for mold. Remove the bottom and treat exposed surfaces. If the cabinet is seriously water damaged, consider replacement.
• Properly dispose of the contaminated materials according to your local, State, and Federal regulations.

Properly dispose of the contaminated materials according to your local, State, and Federal regulations.

• Decks & Fences
• Patios

Removing Mold From Decks and Fences

Left exposed to the elements, wooden decks and fences are especially vulnerable to mold. In addition to the wood itself, other organic materials like leaves, pollen and dust that falls onto the wood provide nourishment that mold needs to thrive. With the exception of soft-rot fungi that decay fence posts or pickets in the ground, the mold commonly found on decks and fences does not degrade wood cell structure. However, mold is unsightly and with prolonged exposure to moisture, wood-decaying fungus can develop, so it’s always a good idea to treat outdoor wood with an appropriate EPA-registered fungicide.

Set Up Containment

Whenever cleaning mold outside, close all windows and exterior doors to prevent mold spores and moldy dust from spreading to the building interior.

Before Cleaning

• Clear furniture and other objects off the deck.
• Place damp objects in the sun so they can dry.
• Place small objects in airtight, watertight containers until they can be properly cleaned.

Cleaning Away Mold

• Use a stiff brush to attack heavily soiled surfaces or power wash the surfaces to clean grime and staining. If using a power washer, be sure the force of the flow won’t damage the surface.
• Let the deck or fence dry in the sun and air. Drying surfaces will help stop mold growth and improve the effectiveness of anti-mold products.
• Apply an appropriate EPA-registered fungicide at least twice, allowing the surface to dry at least 24 hours between applications.
• Clean the surfaces of furniture and other items before returning them to the deck. Any upholstered pieces that have a strong musty smell or that contain visible mold, and that do not have waterproof covers, should be reupholstered or replaced.

Preventing Future Mold Growth

• Once dry again many surfaces can be treated with antimicrobial paints or sealants.
• Make sure water from the roof, gutters and downspouts stays clear of the deck.
• Give decks a good scrubbing or pressure washing twice a season with an appropriate EPA-registered fungicide.
• Wood should be treated annually or as recommended with an appropriate waterproofing coating.
• Fences can be cleaned in the spring and fall on a clear, sunny day so surfaces will dry quickly.
• If installing a new fence, be sure that the bottoms of pickets or bottoms of rails are at least an inch off the ground, to keep them out of the soil.

Properly dispose of the contaminated materials according to your local, State, and Federal regulations.

Removing Mold From Patios

Brick, slate, cement– whatever material a patio is made of, continual exposure to outside moisture can cause mold problems. Wherever people gather, it’s a good idea to be aware of mold, take steps to remediate any problems you encounter and prevent future mold growth through regular cleaning and treatment.

Set Up Containment

Whenever cleaning mold outside, close all windows and exterior doors to prevent mold spores and moldy dust from spreading to the building interior.

Before Cleaning

• Clear furniture and other objects off the deck.
• Place damp objects in the sun so they can dry.
• Place small objects in airtight, watertight containers until they can be properly cleaned.

Cleaning Away Mold

• Use water and a stiff brush to clean surfaces — if your patio is not brick, you can power wash the surfaces
• Let the patio dry in the sun and air. Drying surfaces will help stop mold growth and improve the effectiveness of anti-mold products.
• Use an appropriate cleaner to clean mold growth and staining from the patio.
• Rinse the patio, let it dry, then treat with an EPA-registered fungicide to disinfect the surface and kill mold growth.
• This process may need to be repeated once or twice a year.
• Clean the surfaces of furniture and other items before returning them to the patio. Any upholstered pieces that have a strong musty smell or that contain visible mold, and that do not have waterproof covers, should be reupholstered or replaced.

Preventing Future Mold Growth

• Frequent sweeping of the surface and washing it every now and then will remove some of the nutrients that can lead to mold growth.
• Keep roof, gutters and downspouts clean of leaves and debris and that water from them stays clear of the patio
• Correct grading if necessary, or build a swale (a shallow ditch) or small wall to direct water away from the patio.

Properly dispose of the contaminated materials according to your local, State, and Federal regulations.

• Carpeting
• Vehicles

Removing Mold From Carpeting

While it may be possible to save rugs or carpeting after water damage and flooding, it is usually more cost effective to replace it and sometimes it cannot be saved because . . .

• Carpet is made of absorbent materials
• The backing is usually also some type of fiber
• Carpet is generally laid over a pad that’s a porous material
• The sub flooring beneath it is usually plywood and the plywood is usually lying over wood floor joists.

All of these factors work against successful mold remediation. Damp carpet is extremely hard to completely dry out because often water or moisture penetrates multiple layers — the carpet backing, pad, the sub floor and beyond. As a result, mold and other fungi can eat and grow and send out spores and spread very quickly even as you’re cleaning.

Remediating Carpet Mold

• Determine if your flooring is salvageable:
• Obvious growth that’s visible to the naked eye means there’s very little chance to save it.
• Spore contamination on carpeting — without visible mold growth — at least gives you a fighting chance to save it.
• Mold Amor® Mold Test Kits provide an economical way to accurately assess the mold problem you face before you invest time, money and effort into cleaning.
• If the decision is made to save the carpeting, you must:
• • Extract every last bit of moisture — pull back the rug to make sure the pad and floor beneath it aren’t wet, letting the carpet dry completely
  • Apply two applications of a fungicide to completely kill any spores and any mold down to its roots, so that it doesn’t re-grow.

If your area of contamination is greater than about 10 square feet, it is recommended that you hire a professional remediation company rather than attempting clean up and removal yourself.

Properly dispose of the contaminated materials according to your local, State, and Federal regulations.

Removing Mold From Vehicles

Whether it gets a foothold in your work or personal vehicle, the presence of mold is a nasty and unhealthy problem that needs immediate attention. Mold problems are somewhat prevalent in vehicles because they contain plenty of food for fungi, as well as multiple sources of moisture including bad seals, wet floor mats and open windows. Mold in vehicles should always be addressed promptly and remediation should have the following objectives.

1. DRY:
   The number one way to control mold is to eliminate the moisture it needs to live and grow. Fix leaky foundations and plumbing, dehumidify damp humid air and wipe up all liquid spills immediately to prevent mold growth.
2. CONTAINMENT:
   Prevent mold spores from being spread or carried indoors.
3. REMOVAL:
   Eliminate mold-contaminated materials as appropriate.
4. TREATMENT:
   Clean surfaces with appropriate Professional Mold Solutions products.
5. PROTECTION:
   Prevent future mold growth.

Please note: These directions are not intended to provide medical or legal advice. The services of a competent professional should be obtained whenever medical or legal advice is needed. These directions contain no warranty – either express or implied – regarding the recommendations offered or the practices described. The creators of this document and the organization that provides this document do not assume any liability for consequences arising from the use of the content of these directions. The directions are not intended to be all-inclusive. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for use of all products.

Set Up Containment

To avoid spreading mold spores, keep the vehicle outside when cleaning away mold. If you have to do the work in a garage, keep the overhead garage door open.

Determine Whether To Keep The Job In-House or Outsource

In general, owners or trained maintenance personnel can clean vehicles with moderate mold problems. However, it is strongly advised that professional remediators or mechanics deal with the following vehicle problems:

• A heating and cooling system that delivers musty-smelling air
• A carpet or upholstery that experienced flooding from category 3 water (from a river that contains silt, organic debris, or dangerous chemicals).
• The drain line from a vehicle’s A/C is clogged or the cooling coil is moldy

Pre-Remediation Testing For Mold

• Test the air in the vehicle with an Mold Armor® Mold Test Kit, first with the heating and cooling system off, and then with the system on.
• Test the carpet by patting the soft surface of the mold kit facing the fibers. The surface of the agar does not have to touch the fibers.
• You don’t have to wait for the test results to start cleaning surfaces that contain visible mold.

Before You Begin Cleaning

• Have leaks repaired and eroded seals and gaskets replaced.
• Leak test areas to find out how water is getting into the vehicle. For example, spray the windshield with water. Then use a bright flashlight and mirror to see where water may be dripping in.
• Dry the interior of the vehicle as much as you can.
• Remove moldy mats and wipe up any water.
• In a dry climate, open up the vehicle and let it dry in the sun.
• Drying the air will help dry out surfaces, stop mold growth, and improve the effectiveness of anti-mold products.
  Cleaning Up Mold Inside the Vehicle or Trunk
• HEPA vacuum surfaces in the space (a HEPA vacuum contains a high efficiency particulate arrestance filter). Do not use conventional vacuum cleaners or shop vacuums, because these vacuums emit mold spores and other irritants and allergens in their exhaust.
• Metal, plastic, wood, fiberglass, and other vehicle surfaces can be treated with an appropriate EPA-registered fungicide as needed, but the surfaces must first be dry.
• Treat cloth and leather seats with an appropriate EPA-registered fungicide. Test the product on a small spot first to be sure it won’t cause damage.
• A light application of an appropriate EPA-registered fungicide can help to disinfect areas of light surface mold on the seats.
• Carpets that smell slightly musty can be steam cleaned using an appropriate EPA-registered fungicide.
• If the carpet contains visible mold or has remained damp for more than two days and has a strong musty odor, it may have to be removed and replaced. Any carpet pad present should also be removed.
• If you cannot remove the carpet and pad, treat and then allow to dry thoroughly. Cover the carpet with an adhesive-backed plastic (www.pro-tect.com) Then cover the carpet and plastic with a large rubber mat.
• When you’ve finished this work, leave vehicle windows and the trunk door open to help the inside dry.
• HEPA vacuum interior surfaces again. If you are using the same HEPA vacuum that you used for the cleanup, take the vacuum outside, and remove and discard the bag and the HEPA filter. Then damp-wipe the interior and exterior of the machine with an appropriate EPA-registered fungicide, and put a new bag and HEPA filter inside.

Cleaning the Heating and Air Conditioning System

If the drain line from a vehicle’s A/C is clogged or the cooling coil is moldy, the unit must be professionally cleaned. The coils should also be cleaned and disinfected.

Checking The Work

Consider re-testing the air coming from the heating and cooling system with an Mold Armor® Mold Test Kit. If the test indicates the on-going presence of airborne spores, further treatment of the system may be necessary.

Prevent Future Mold Growth

• Repair leaks promptly.
• Keep the windows closed during heavy rain.
• Kick snow off your boots or shoes before getting into the vehicle.
• Avoid eating in the vehicle.
• Dry damp carpet and surfaces promptly.
• Replace seals and gaskets that have deteriorated.
• Repair any holes in the vehicle body that may be allowing water entry.
• Vacuum carpets and upholstery frequently.
• Use rubber floor mats — clean and dry regularly.
• If the carpet gets damp, temporarily remove the mats then open windows and use a fan to
  dry the carpet.
• Have a mechanic check the heating or cooling system air for musty odors.
• Be sure to change cabin air filter according to the manufacturer’s schedule.

Properly dispose of the contaminated materials according to your local, State, and Federal regulations.